New Batch – Salami 3 ways

It’s another batch of salami.   This time I’m going with some favorites with the holidays coming up there’s no room for experimentation, at least this week…

The three favorites include 12 lbs of Finocchiona, 12 lbs of Salchichon and 8 lbs of Calabrese.  with a little luck they’ll all be done by Thanksgiving.  the plan is to start another batch in 2 weeks to be ready in time for Christmas, hope for the best.

One thing I learned on this batch… don’t let your humidifier go dry and keep it running.  I’m off to Target this morning to replace that valuable piece of equipment, yay! :(

The Salchichon will go into the smoker for a few hours tonight at very low temperatures, everything else will start getting it’s mold coat this morning.

Bacon fans don’t fret.  Tonight we’ll be curing 4 bellies (50+lbs) so next week we’ll have fresh bacon for all my friends!

Canadian Bacon – Wild Boar Sausage

The best things happen when you are interested in Salami and cured meats.  I was volunteering at a church pancake breakfast and what happened you ask?

The manager pulled out some wild boar, I mixed up some spices they had in the kitchen, he mixed up a dipping sauce and the kitchen staff at this pancake breakfast had a really tasty appetizer.

Then when we were done the manager (Greg) came by the house with my friend Dan and we tasted my first attempt at a Canadian Bacon.  Wow is all I can say.

I cured it in a brown sugar, rosemary, juniper berry, fennel mixture for 12 days, then soaked it for about 15 minutes in water, dried it off and smoked it at 100 degrees for 2 hours, 140 for 2 more and 160 for another hour.

It has the consistency of prosciutto, nicely smoked but not too much, good amount of salt but again, it came out better than I expected.  Another excellent addition to the repertoire!

Salami and Beer

O.K. we had some real fun last night.  My brother was in town and we went to Lost Abbey / Port Brewing for some IPAs.  We both like those.  I had sample bags of the Finocchiona, Tarragon Special, Calabrese and Soppressa Veneta da Friuili.  We were having a good time eating and “tasting” their 4 fantastic IPA’s, when Leslie the beer server was challenged to pair the salami’s with different beers.

The results were somewhat amazing.  Not one of the beers she paired were beers I would normally have ordered, but every one accentuated the salami in a great way.  I really wish I could remember the specifics, I think it was a saison that was paired with the Soppressa Veneta da Friuili, which really matched up with the droga dolce spice blend.  Very interesting.  Then the Finocchiona went with a lager that was very tasty.

The point here is that it was a fantastic experience of taste and it made the beer better and the salami better.  I still like my IPA (especially the Mongo) but the other beers that I normally never give a second look were real eye openers.  It’s also making me think more about new salami flavors and spice blends.

Bacon

Home made bacon is the best, no question no debate.  I started making my own and then the local butcher shops raised the price of pork belly.  What do we do when the price goes up…?  We go wholesale, in this case Restaurant Depot sells pork bellies in cases of 2, that’s 2 whole bellies.  Well that’s too much for one household so one of my friends wanted some, we split the case and all was right with the world.

So this batch more friends wanted to stock their freezers so what you see here is three complete bellies, about 40 lbs of bacon in my smoker.  Apple wood smoked. Yum.  Darren the original co-bacon maker does his own.  Part of this will go to a 40th birthday party next weekend wrapping up filets and scallops, another yum and happy birthday to Heather!

For a cure I use brown sugar, salt, rosemary, fennel, juniper berries, pepper and garlic powder.  5 1/2 days in the cure, into the smoker for 6 hours at low temps.  The house smells fantastic, the kids are giddy with the anticipation of a Sunday morning breakfast with fresh bacon and all my friends are anxiously waiting for their sliced bacon.

Old friends – New treats

If the worst part of salami making is waiting, the best part is after the wait.  I’ve been sampling most of the 5 varieties from the last batch, and must say the custom recipes are standing up nicely to the known recipes from Len Poli.  Specifically the Tarra Special (tarragon with madiera) is real good.  The Soppressa Veneta da Friuili  is real good too though.

So then I’m looking through the fridge and there’s a half pound of the salsichon I made several months ago.  It’s smoked so I’m not sure how long it will last in a plastic bag, but 3 months seems good.  It’s flavors have gotten more concentrated, with the smoked paprika and cold smoke coming through but not beating you over the head.  Really good salami.

The calabrese style salami is going fast, a big hit.  The Friday lunch crowd it getting the most benefit of all this salami right now, and I must say, I’m enjoying the variety.  My first experiments with recipes with cinamon and nutmeg, plus the old favorites, and my favorite of all the Tarragon special.  Yay.

First Tastes…

Well we’ve finally got something to talk about, well actually lots to talk about.  The Calabrese small diameter salami has been being consumed for 2 weeks now, from now on if you are low on salami, make a few in skinny hog casings, they dry fast…. yippeee, and in the photo the one in the front.

That’s also an awesome salami, great flavor with a late bit of heat from the red peppers on the backend.  that’s a keeper.  For some reason the Finnocchiona also dried faster than the others and this batch seems as good as the last.  I think I have that recipe where I want it and the new name is Finnnominal!  It’s the larger one on the right.

Also being consumed is the venison salami.  It took much longer to get to a consistency I was happy with but it’s there now and I must say the flavor is great.  it’s the one on the left.

I also tasted the Salami Artigiano which if you recall has a bit of cinnamon and cloves.  The flavor is really nice, but they need another week or two.

Still pending are the Soppressa Veneta da Friuili and the Tarra special.  looking forward to both but the feel of the salami was just like the Artigiano so I left them to hang longer.

The Hardest Part of Salami Making

To quote Tom Petty, “The waiting is the hardest part”.  right now there are about 45 lbs of salami hanging in my new used salami case and there’s not a thing I can do, just wait.

So today I took a picture, that’s fun but only takes a few seconds, then I didn’t like some of the shadows, so I used the multi-flash capability of my Canon 7D to shoot a flash up from the bottom of the case and here’s what I got.  Again not that fun since all I really want to do is taste all of these salamis.  And for those that are not into photography the technique of bouncing the remote flash up through the salami is pretty boring too.

So the lesson here is to always make enough salami so you don’t run out, otherwise you end up waiting, and waiting, and waiting.

Actually there is an update on the venison salami – taste – nice, a little mild for a wild game, but the white tailed deer of Texas obviously lead an easy life, the meat is just sweat as can be and not that gammy at all.  It will be ready in another week but as you can tell from the one on the right, I did sample it already (shhh don’t tell).

Also the Calabrese Salami is coming along nicely and should be ready by next weekend.  It’s in thinner hog casings so drying time should be much less.  Can’t wait!

Did the 30+ Year Old Salami Case Really Die?

Oh what fun, the weekend after making the largest batch of salami I have ever made I have my old fridge die!

For those that don’t know what to do in this situation let me explain how I dealt with it.

First – blue ice is your friend.  I was able to keep the temperature right around 60 degrees F. with 4 blue ice bags, rotated every 6-12 hours.  Luckily we’re here on the coast were the ambient temperature stays below 80.

Then we start the calls to Craig’s List.  I found a 18 year old GE side by side 23 cubic foot fridge and got it down from $90 to $65.  So with a quick trip with the horse trailer we had a new refrigerator.  Drill a couple of holes in the back, feed the cords through and we’re back in business.

No stress, it’s only 35lbs of meat.   glad that one’s over with.

 

Stepping Up – 35Lb Batch

At the same time I decided to step up from 15-20 lb. batches to 35lbs, I decided to start this blog.  Great thinking Jeff…

There’s a huge difference between 17lbs and 35lbs of salami,the math is easy, it’s double, but what is required is organization.  I made 5 different types of salami, and I did it very systematically, first grind all the meat, second put all of the spices into separate bowls, then start assembly, one type at  a time, mixing, stuffing then cleaning up, then mixing, stuffing and cleaning up.

Overall I did all the grinding using our 30+year old Kitchen-Aid standing mixer with the grinder attachment.  It’s more than capable of grinding the meat, but when you do that much at a time the motor starts to get a little hot.  I’m not sure you can push that machine to do much more in one session.

The meat was all pork butts, half bone in (bones go to the dogs) and half De-boned.  No particular reason, that’s just what I grabbed at the store.  De-boned is easier, but if I can save money with the bone in I do.  We’ll talk about which meat to buy in another post.

Here’s what I made:

  1. 12 lbs of what I call “Finno” – basically it’s a Finocchiona with extra fennel, garlic and pepper and I used sherry.  This is my favorite salami and one my good friend says “of all the salami’s you make,don’t change this recipe”  glad I wrote that one down.
  2. 5lbs of Calabrese Salami – a la Len Poli.  This is my first shot at this one so I followed his recipe.  That’s pretty typical, I follow someone else the first time, then modify it if I like it.  This one features lots of crushed red pepper and anise seed, stuffed into hog cassings.  most of my salami is in 2+ inch calogen casings, these are thinner and should be ready faster.
  3. 6 lbs of Salami Artigiano – another Len Poli recipe, only modified in the meat mixture – I didn’t use any beef.  What interested me about this was the mixture of nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves with garlic powder in a classic Italian salami… we’ll see.
  4. 5 lbs Soppressa Veneta da Friuili – the last Len Poli recipe of this batch (anyone who decides to make salami sooner or later will come accross Len’s recipes.  I have never met him but he’s already had a profound influence on my salami making).  What interested me about this recipe was the use of Droga dolce (a blend of cinnamon, cardomom, nutmeg, sugar and galingal(a type of ginger).  He called for white wine and I used madiera, we’ll see.
  5. 7 lbs – Tarra Special – this one’s all custom, using tarragon, garlic powder, & sherry.  Tarragon is among my favorite herbs to cook with so I had to try it.  Stay Tuned!

I ground the meat and prepared the spices on Sunday afternoon, then on Monday after work I mixed stuffed and cleaned from 6 p.m. until about 10, then another hour of dishes to stay out of trouble and it’s all in the case.  I’m pretty sure you can’t fit much more into my case, but I’m not opposed to trying.  I believe that when it’s this full they will dry slower but that’s another experiment for this batch.

I can’t wait to taste these!

Venison Salami

O.k. let’s back up a little. 12 lbs (dried to 8.5lbs) of Venison Salami is just out of the case and into the fridge for a couple of weeks of final drying. I’ve found that when the salami gets to the correct weight, it seems better after another week or 2 in the fridge, seems to firm up a little more. Anyway before I started this last batch of 35 lbs. of 5 varieties of pork salami, I pulled these venison salamis out. They look nice but I am dying to try one.

The venison came from the owner of our local archery shop. It’s White Tail Deer from Texas. The recipe is basically Len Poli’s recipe with a few extras thrown in. That is one habit I have to stop and everyone should think about, write it down because you won’t remember.  This one has some added garlic powder and fennel seeds and red pepper.  I decided after making some summer sausage with this meat that it was very mild, not a very gammy flavor at all so that’s why I added the pepper and fennel.  We will see!

Anyway, that’s about ready to taste, the only thing about it is I don’t get to keep it all, have to give most of it back to the owner, but that’s part of the fun.

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